Researched guide · Checked on Oct 19, 2026
Sugamo is often called “Harajuku for grandmas”: an old shopping street where older Tokyoites come to pray for good health, shop for bargains and buy red underwear for luck. It is a cheerful, very local half day, with one of Tokyo’s most beautiful gardens nearby.
Quick answer
Getting there: Sugamo Station (JR Yamanote Line, Toei Mita Line)
Time needed: Half a day
Best time: Daytime; spring and autumn for Rikugien’s night illuminations
Good for: Local shopping street, temples, gardens, snacks
Plan Your Visit to Sugamo
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Overview
| Getting there | Sugamo Station (JR Yamanote Line, Toei Mita Line) |
| Time needed | Half a day |
| Best time | Daytime; spring and autumn for Rikugien’s night illuminations |
| Good for | Local shopping street, temples, gardens, snacks |
Best Things to Do
Jizo-dori Shopping Street
The heart of Sugamo, with retro shops and street vendors selling low-priced crafts, snacks and souvenirs. The Toden Arakawa streetcar runs through the area.
Koganji Temple (Togenuki Jizo)
Founded in 1596 and moved to Sugamo in 1891, Koganji is famous for its Togenuki Jizo. Visitors pray for good health and wash the Arai Kannon statue in front of the temple.
Red underwear for luck
In Japan, red stands for luck and long life, and turning 60 is traditionally marked with red clothing. Shops such as Maruji sell red underwear, T-shirts, scarves and socks, a popular Sugamo souvenir.
Rikugien Gardens
In nearby Komagome, Rikugien was built around 1700 and recreates 88 scenes from famous poems. It is lit up at night in spring and autumn. See our Tokyo parks and gardens guide.
Food & Drink
Try shio-daifuku, a sweet-and-salty rice cake, from the shops along Jizo-dori, and ask for food samples as you browse.
Shopping
- Low-priced crafts, snacks and souvenirs along Jizo-dori.
- Red underwear and socks for luck at shops such as Maruji.
Where to Stay
Ikebukuro, two stops away on the JR Yamanote Line, is the nearest big hotel area. See Best hotels in Ikebukuro.
Getting There
- Sugamo Station: JR Yamanote Line or Toei Mita Line.
- From Shinjuku: about 20 minutes on the JR Yamanote Line. From Tokyo Station: about 25 minutes.
- From the airports: about 55 minutes by train from Haneda, or 1 hour 20 minutes from Narita.
New to Tokyo trains? See Trains in Tokyo and How to use Suica.
Suggested Itinerary
- MorningJizo-dori Shopping Street
- Walk
- Koganji Temple (Togenuki Jizo)
- LunchSnacks and shio-daifuku on Jizo-dori
- JR Yamanote Line, 1 stop
- AfternoonRikugien Gardens in Komagome
Travel Tips
- Ask for food samples as you shop along Jizo-dori.
- Come to Rikugien in spring or autumn for the night illuminations.
- Combine with Ikebukuro, two stops away.
FAQ
Why is Sugamo called Harajuku for grandmas?
Its shopping street and temple are especially popular with older Tokyoites, who come to pray for health and shop.
Why do people buy red underwear in Sugamo?
Red symbolizes luck and long life in Japan.
How do I get to Rikugien from Sugamo?
It is in nearby Komagome, one stop away on the JR Yamanote Line.
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Sources
Information comes from the official sources below (checked October 19, 2026). Hours and prices change, so please check before you go.
